www.drip fed waste oil heating.com
Setting up your new waste oil heater.
Some customers get this terribly wrong and wonder what's happening. So read it all, you need to know this stuff.
We have put instructions in with every heater I'm sure these are just used to start the first fire as some of you are just totally lost.
Not a good idea.
And we get the odd one that rings and still doesn't listen to how we recommend how to get it going WTF, the worst one is water in the oil.
They say there's no water in their oil the thing is they wouldn't have a bloody clue. It's good practice to put the 4x2 under the outlet so any water will flow to the lowest point in the container and it does it very fast. Water in your oil will stop the heater heating up.
Oh yeah the other one that really get us, is they will complain it's not burning correctly or not hot enough and after 5-10 phone calls wondering what they could be doing wrong I'll ask how many flues do you have on it, their answer non. You tend not to hear back from them once the flues go on and the water is removed.
One major issue is the oil container needs to be higher than the pump at the start, so the oil will gravity feed to the pump, once the oil reaches the pump lower the oil container below the level of the pump, this will stop it from gravity feeding and pumping at the same time creating excess smoke because your over feeding the heater with oil. Setup the controller so it screws to the wall high enough to access it with ease as your going to be altering it from time to time as different oils arrive onsite. So if you mount the controller at about 1200 high or slightly higher is good then when the pump operates the oil will drop to the heater creating a constant supply of oil to the heater this will stop that steam engine sound or the heater hunting for oil.
Make sure you have pushed the power cord in fully to the adaptor or the controller wont work.
The power adaptors are 12 volt 5 amps if we supply you with a 3 amp power supply let us know we'll fix that by sending you the correct unit.
If your heater starts to smoke increase the delay time then wait to see the change if there isn't any increase the delay again until the smoke clears up. You can also increase the fan speed too which also helps at times.
Fan speed is normally set to full speed.
A clean heater will burn cleaner than one with ash build up, clean any ash out before relighting the unit everytime. Good habbit to get into.
These pumps canl find it difficult to pump thick oil so pump from 3/4 the way down your container or drum so all that awful thick stuff will be left in the container not blocking up your pump. You can then mix a little diesel to that thick oil to thin it up and burn it later.
When setting up your new pool heat remember you are going to lose alot of heat when you setup your heater further than 5 metres away from your pool. Ideally you need to be quite close to reap the benefits.
I did one the other week 10 metres away from the pool cold, wet and windiest place you could ever expect to heat water. So that's 20 metres of piping the water has to travel.
The water temp was 35c entering the pool as expected, the owner wanted it there and didn't want it anywhere else, and still expected it to put out 75c anyway it didn't. So the heater doesn't work. The pump which we supply with the heater requires a one way valve to be able to pump, and a tap alone the inlet line to slow the flow down to get heat into the water.
In the plumbing world they won't pump hot water further than 5 metres because of this reason.
Lets learn from this.